stenewoodwork

How Your Loans and Spending Habits Are Quietly Shaping Your Credit Score

Fri, 10 Apr 2026 19:52:17 GMT

Your credit score is one of the most important numbers in your financial life — especially when it comes to getting a mortgage. But for most Canadians, how that number actually gets calculated remains a bit of a mystery.

Here's what you need to know.

What Is a Credit Score, Exactly?

A credit score in Canada ranges between 300 and 900 points. It's considered a predictor of how likely you are to pay your debt on time, and it directly affects a lender's decisions on loans, interest rates, and credit limits. The higher your score, the better.

In Canada, Equifax and TransUnion are the two primary organizations that collect data on consumer borrowing and provide credit scores to lenders. While both use similar inputs, their algorithms can differ — which is why your score may vary slightly depending on which bureau a lender checks.

Not All Loans Are Created Equal

You might assume that carrying a mortgage, a car loan, and a credit card all affect your score the same way. They don't.

Revolving credit products — like credit cards or a line of credit — can carry a higher influence on your credit score because they provide more insight into how you manage credit on a day-to-day basis. If you're regularly carrying a high balance or missing payments, that gets noticed quickly.

Instalment loans, such as auto loans, personal loans, or student loans, show your ability to manage a fixed scheduled payment. A mortgage, on the other hand, demonstrates your capacity to manage long-term balance repayment. Each type of credit tells lenders something different about your financial behaviour.

The Factors That Matter Most

Here's a breakdown of what actually moves your credit score:

1. Payment History

The biggest impact on your credit score comes from payment history — whether you're paying on time, and how long any bills have gone unpaid. Even one missed payment can leave a mark.

2. Total Amount Owed

This includes the total you owe across all creditors, how much you owe on specific types of accounts, and how much of your available credit you've used.

3. Credit Utilization

Your debt-to-credit utilization ratio — the amount you're borrowing compared to your total credit limit — matters significantly. Keeping that ratio below 30 to 40 per cent will help your score.

4. Length of Credit History

How long you've had credit products plays a role in your score calculation. This includes the age of your oldest account, your newest account, and the average age of all accounts. Closing old accounts can unintentionally lower your score.

5. Credit Inquiries

A credit inquiry for a new credit card or auto loan stays on your profile for six years. Checking your own score or getting a pre-approval doesn't affect your score — and when shopping for a mortgage, multiple inquiries are typically treated as a single event.

6. Unused Credit

Having a large amount of unused credit available can also negatively affect your score. Even if you don't owe anything on a $50,000 line of credit, a lender still has to factor in the fact that you have the capacity to take on that debt.

What This Means Before You Apply for a Mortgage

Your credit score doesn't just determine whether you're approved — it directly impacts the interest rate you're offered. A stronger score can mean thousands of dollars in savings over the life of your mortgage.

If you're planning to buy, renew, or refinance, it's worth taking a close look at your credit picture well in advance. Small changes — like paying down a credit card balance or avoiding new credit applications — can make a real difference in where your score lands when it counts.

Not sure where to start? Reach out — reviewing your financial profile before you apply is part of how we help you get the best possible outcome.

Have questions about your mortgage options? Get in touch today.

Doors, Doors, Doors

Mon, 18 Feb 2019 16:21:00 GMT

An in depth explanation of how I set frames and hang doors.

It seems like everybody and their dog knows how to hang a door. I've seen some doors that you'd think a dog must have hung it.

But really a door is something that if it swings freely and doesn't rub on the frame, almost nobody notices it. EVER.

That being said I will be explain how I hang a door, and you can tell me how wrong I am, ok?

To start us out, here is a list of things I have when I hang doors:

Nail gun(usually 18g brad nailer, with 2" nails)
Impact Driver
Drill with a 1/8" bit and countersink
shims( along with more shims, and some of their buddies: shims)
24" Level
Cross Line Laser
Screws

SIZE OF THE DOOR AND FRAME
I usually hang 3' x 7', 1 3/4" solid core doors, with 3/4" solid wood jambs. I machine them so the opening is 7/8" taller than the door(1/8" gap at the top, 3/4 at the bottom) and 3/16" wider than the door. So with a 3' 7' door my opening is 36 3/16 wide by 84 7/8 tall. Why the big gap at the bottom? The floors are notoriously un-level here, and if the customer wants a sound barrier we mortise a auto door bottom into the door to seal that gap.

SIZING OF THE ROUGH OPENING
So these doors end up being 90 lbs, and I am usually installing in steel framed spaces. When this is the case, I have them give me a Rough Opening 2" wider and 2" taller than the door. That way when my frame is in place I will have 1/2" to shim on the sides, and 3/8 above the header. I also have them install 3/4" plywood backing on the studs so my screws can grab securely.

METHOD OF INSTALLATION
I start by assembling the frame and setting it in the opening, and tack a nail in the hinge side near the top of the frame to keep it in place. This keeps the frame from falling over while I use my level to check how level the header of the frame is. if the hinge side is low, I will immediately shim it up. 9 out of 10 times I am there prior to flooring, so the gap at the bottom of the frame doesn't matter. If I'm not, I will trim the strike side to make the frame level.

If I'm in a hallway with lots of doors beside each other, I will shoot a laser at the height of the lowest RO header and cut all my jambs prior to assembly, so that the trim will look even along the hallway. This is where having 3/4" of space at the bottom of my door is very handy, I have lots of room to play with before having to cut the door.

After making the header level, I put a nail beside each of the hinges, nailing it tight to the stud. I then shoot a vertical laser line against the jamb, and use my glazing bar to move the jamb into level. I then put in shims, tack a few extra nails in place, pre-drill and counter sink a hole and drive a screw beside each hinge, with shims on either side. I put all of my fasteners where the door stop will hide them.

Note: A laser line will get your jamb very close to perfect, but to achieve perfect and crisp reveals a string line and plumb bob is ideal. It takes longer, but achieves the results.

Once the hinge side is plumb and secured, I move my laser to the strike side and shoot a line registering from the edge of the jamb near the header. The header gives me the correct space for my strike side. I then work my way down the jamb, tacking it in place with the nail gun all the way down. I double check the spacing with my tape measure, just in case there is deflection in my laser(it happens, so I always check. A more surefire way would be to use a plumb bob and string line, it's slower but the most accurate.

I then repeat the shim process, putting 3 screws in the jamb at the top, by the strike, and at the bottom. I never put fasteners in the headers of single doors, unless there is a warp in the header, otherwise there isn't a point.

Now we're done, we can install the casing, hang the door, do a jig, or go home. I almost never have the doors onsite when installing frames, mostly because they are still en-route or being finished. I've done 120 frames in an office building, casing and all, without the doors and there wasn't a single problem(just make sure you know exactly what kind of hardware is scheduled for each door, and where it goes, and machine it properly, and there won't be a problem). Can you fine tune the gap best with a door in place? Yes, but with this method the gaps will be near perfect every time.

What do you think? If you have anything to add, or if you want to explain why I am a complete idiot, please do so in the comments below, thanks!

Finishing Projects Before Glue-Up

john@stenewoodwork.com (John Stene) — Mon, 24 Dec 2018 19:02:44 GMT

Is it Worth the Hassle?

Recently I've been reassessing the work-flow in the shop when working on furniture. Usually finishing is the last step in the process, with assembly of the piece preceding it. But in the last few months I have been noticing different builders like Philip Morley(@philipmorleyfurniture) and Darren Oats(@darrenoatesfinefurniture) on Instagram pre-finishing their pieces before assembly.

Now the benefits of this method that I have noticed are ease of finish application, and the elimination of hard to reach areas like inside corners. The finish quality seems to be more consistent, since all of the areas can be sprayed and then sanded evenly. Application of dyes and stains is also much easier, because they can be applied and wiped off evenly. All in all the finish seems to be much better with this method.
The catch is that all of the areas that will be glued need to be masked off, and the masking trimmed so that only the parts within the joint are left unfinished. I just built three floating decor shelves and tested this method with excellent results.
The only frustration is the time needed to mask everything off. It took me quite a while, mostly because I am not used to doing it, and it added another step to the finish process, which I loathe to begin with.
The added benefit that I believe makes it worth the time is that glue squeeze-out is no longer an issue, because depending on the finish and glue used, you can either wipe it away, or allow it to dry and simply peel it off the finish(because wood glue needs a porous material to stick). This I found to be the biggest advantage, because we all have had that light spot where we missed a bit of glue when sanding that pops up when staining or after the first coat of finish.

I've only pre-finished two projects so far, but the end result of both have been so positive that my inexperience with the method has been negated. Needless to say I will be continuing to experiment with it, and will hopefully make the process faster and more efficient.

Do you have any information that might add value to this topic? If so please share it in the comments below, we'd love to keep the knowledge flowing!

Headphones on the Jobsite

john@stenewoodwork.com (John Stene) — Tue, 04 Dec 2018 03:12:17 GMT

Etiquette For Those Who Want To Listen While Working

You know that look. You see it from every site superintendent the first time you walk onto the job site. They're not checking out your sweet new hat, they're looking at those earphones you have in.

I'm also familiar with that look. I received it all the time when I started wearing in-ear noise-isolating headphones on jobsites. That was over 6 years ago, and I still get that look from people on site.

That being said I've never been asked to take them out, and that is because of the main reason I wear them: hearing protection.

Here are some guidelines that I use when wearing headphones on the jobsite:

1. Always make sure the headphones are noise isolating. If they aren't you will inevitably be cranking the volume in order to hear your listening content. This is the exact reason there are rules against headphones, because the wearer can't hear what's going on around them, and they become a safety hazard. If you are turning your volume up over 50%, your headphones aren't adequate as noise isolation. The silicone tips on earphones are horrible, so make sure to purchase a pair that have foam tips. They isolate more sound, fit better, and look and act just like earplugs. The more your headphones look and act like hearing protection, the more they will be accepted on a job site.

2. Listen to Audiobooks or Podcasts. You don't have to listen to music, and a lot of the time music at any volume can make hearing someone talking impossible. Spoken word content is much easier to keep at a lower volume, and it's easy to hear other people talk to you while listening. The only time I listen to music is when nobody is around me, and I know that the likelihood of someone talking to me is very low.

3. Make sure to be discrete with your headphones. If you brandish your cords and headphones and things around, it will get noticed easier. Don't wear your Beats on a job site, if you prefer over-ear opposed to in-ear, get the wireless 3M muffs. They look just like official hearing protection(because they are) but they also have bluetooth connectivity, and they even have a mic for phone calls.

4. If you are confronted about the headphones onsite, be respectful, and present yourself as knowledgeable. Don't present the super with stupid excuses like "the doctor said I have to wear these for my vertigo", or "if I don't wear these my brains will fall out", they will see through those as easy as a donut hole. Make sure to note how they are rated hearing protection(and have stats on how much), and how they enable you to hear alerts on your phone from your boss and coworkers. I've missed a lot of calls because I couldn't hear my phone while wearing earplugs, so it can be a real problem.

5. There will always be the stigma of the "Millennial with the things in their ears". Some guys just won't have it on their sites, and that is ok. Don't try to sneak them in, or be the idiot with his phone speaker going in the hardhat(I've seen that multiple times, who are they trying to fool? Wow that guy's forehead is playing music, INCREDIBLE!) Try to be conscious about how you are appearing to others on the site, if you present yourself as competent and respectful people will notice, and appreciate it. The "I don't care what you think" approach doesn't help anyone, and never will. Make sure to be respectful.

That being said, here are some of my opinions of decent hearing protection style headphones, and what I have landed on as my daily wear.

There are many different kinds, but the headphones that I've found to work best are ones that have foam tips that act much like disposable earplugs. A cheap but effective set of corded earbuds that I wore for many years are the JVC Marshmallow(HAFX38MA).

For me they lasted about 5-7 months until something wore out. You can find them almost anywhere and they are great at noise isolation. If you want to use your current in-ear headphones you can buy aftermarket foam tips, Comply Foam is a company that makes many different sizes that fit most of the popular brands of headphones. Their website is great for determining what you need for what you have.

There are also many makes of bluetooth headphones, one that is very prominent in our community is ISOTunes . They make corded and Bluetooth headphones directly marketed to the worker in noise environments. I've worn their PRO and Xtra models, and they excel at connectivity, battery life, and phone call quality. That being said in my opinion the sound quality was lacking, and I encountered quirks with the product, such as beeps whenever I skipped a track or resumed playback. I also had issues with two of the "PRO" model pairs, one with the mic not working properly and another the right earphone quit working. Their customer service was awesome, and they sent out replacements right away, but I go annoyed with the issues and purchased a competitive brand's model.

I now wear SHURE SE215 with the bluetooth cable, which I have been using for about 7 months. They are designed to be onstage in-ear monitors for musicians, and are meant to isolate noise. I purchased my set in 2016 in the corded configuration, and bought the bluetooth cable for them 7 months ago. The cool thing about them is that the headphone body can detach from the cable, so they can be used as wired or wireless. They are the best I've used, and the battery lasts with constant playback throughout the workday, and into the evenings when I'm doing side-work.

I did have some issues with them shutting down prematurely recently, a short with one of the buttons. I called their warranty center, sent my defective cable in, and they sent a replacement back. I did have to pay for the shipping to the warranty department, and was without the cable for about 2 weeks, but since I will be receiving a brand new replacement I thought that was worth it. Their warranty covers all problems due to normal wear for 2 years.

Now will I be wearing these for years to come? I don't know. They have been very good, but with the way the personal electronics market has been advancing I wouldn't doubt that they will have something miles better in just a few years.

But until then I will keep going with the Shures, they have been an excellent fit for my needs.

Repeatable cuts on a table saw are irreplaceable

Wed, 17 Oct 2018 18:26:34 GMT

Just my two cents, what do you think?

Pretty nice Miter, now if only it was a true 45*. I know these tools are marketed as precision tools, but the truth of the matter is that nothing will beat the reliability of a good table saw. I had the TS55 before the Makita, and it was just as finicky to get a perfect cut. The track tipping, the saw tipping, the piece underneath moving...the variables for mistakes are too many to be reliable.

If you are under the impression that a track saw will be a table saw replacement, I want to let you know it isn’t. It is great on site and for quickly breaking down sheet goods, but the repeatable cuts on a table saw are irreplaceable in my opinion.

Now accuracy does rely on a good saw, a job site table saw may not fit the bill. But a good cabinet saw is a great place to start.

Foundation

Wed, 17 Oct 2018 16:24:52 GMT

My wife is the core of our family. With the kids needing so much time and attention it’s easy to think that they are the focus.
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But I didn’t marry my kids. I didn’t make a vow to them, I made it to my wife.
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I’ve seen plenty of marriages seem fine while the kids are around, but when the last kid leaves they find the only thing they had in common was parenting, and they find themselves in a house with a person who they’ve lost contact with over the years.
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My wife takes priority over the kids. To put it bluntly, I save her first, and the kids second. I’d die for both, but I die first for her.
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The foundation is more important than the furniture.

Nothing I’ve done has earned this blessing, quite the opposite in fact. Despite my actions and shortcomings the Lord has given me much, His grace humbles me every day.